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Belhaven 19 Material List |
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The amount of materials shown here is calculated on the basis of good economical use. If you tend to make a pint of epoxy when you only need a spoonful, you will need extra; and if you tend to cut first and measure later and have to re-do several items, you will find your self short. Therefore, please realize that these quantities are only a guide.
Solid stock wood choices depend on availability. The boats are designed for commonly available materials like fir, spruce etc… We don’t recommend heavy or exotic woods for interior framing. They are hidden anyway. Surprisingly, some of the well know woods for boatbuilding are not ideal for this method. Teak and oak do not glue well, not to mention they are heavy. If you wish to use a touch of fine hardwoods for trim, that is lovely. For example, gunwales triple laminated of spruce or fir against the hull with mahogany in the middle and ash on the outside is not only pretty. It is also practical and keeps the weight to a minimum, while offering the hard ash to take the bumps and bangs. You can make lovely rudders, centerboards and tillers with different wood combinations! Be creative and artistic.
To help understand what goes where, we have listed our solid stock wood materials by the item which is shown in the first column and relates to the part as shown on the plan. The second column is the dimension of the finished lumber. If this finished size is not a standard lumber yard finished size, it will have an asterisk. This means that you will be ripping the correct sizes from the nearest available size as suggested or another size as is available to you. The third column is the length of lumber needed, based on standard commonly available lumber lengths. The fourth column is the common “name” of the size – or the name you will use when ordering the wood. Your average Joe or Jill at the local builders suply probably doesn’t know the finished dimensions of standard lumber – and if you asked for a “6’ length of ¾ X 3 ½” “ you would probably be told they “don’t have it” – but when you as for a 6’ length of 1X4 you will have no problems. The last column gives the number of pieces of that size required for that item. Please note that dimensions are given in both English and Metric Systems. As standard metric sizes vary form country to country, you may have to adapt the suggestions to your national standards.
Fasteners are very difficult to calculate in exact numbers. Where a specific fastener is needed in a critical application, we have specified it. For all others, please extrapolate for your own needs. If you have many clamps, you don’t need too many screws, conversely, you’ll want a larger number if you don’t have many clamps.
For temporary fasteners, we recommend the use of drywall screws (also called sheetrock screws), which can be easily removed, and their holes filled with epoxy. If you do not want to mar the surface for a bright finish, use clamps, either commercial or simple ones we describe at the end of this list. You should have an assortment of sizes on hand. Even after your boat project is finished, you will find these incredibly handy around the house for other projects.
All of our plywood plans call for the use of epoxy. Under no circumstances should you substitute polyester for epoxy. They are not the same. Polyester will fail in a few years. Use a good brand of marine epoxy – see the material source list (US residents) if you can’t find it locally.
We are often asked to recommend finishing paints. We like the two part linear polyurethanes and modified acrylic urethanes. While these two part products are a more expensive and difficult to apply, they are much harder and last much longer. If you decide to go with a single part paint, at least, use a top of the line marine enamel. And, regardless of system, unless you are experienced in the area of paint chemistry, use all the products from a single supplier and for a single line – this way you will have compatibility from primer to finish. Lastly, and importantly, follow the manufacturer’s recommendation with regard to equipment and preparation.
Should you have questions about materials, please let us know and we will try to help you.
Remember when the urge to shave the costs hits you, the most precious thing you will put into this boat is your love and labor, honor them with good materials. You will be repaid by a lifetime of low maintenance, a family heirloom, or a much higher return on your boat if you should sell her.
MARINE PLYWOOD Okume, Khaya, Meranti , Luan or other marine plywood (BS1088 standard)
*interior needs may vary with your own needs and amount of solid wood joinery used.
SOLID STOCK
* Indicates finished dimensions non-standard: rip from lumber sized as suggested or other as is available
Tie Wire 16 gauge (nominal) 1 spool (usually comes 25' - 50')
Epoxy 10 - 15 gallons amount depends on sheathing choices
Epoxy enhancement products: Fillers, thickeners, etc… Colloidal Silica for thixotropic thickeners Wood flour for coloring joints under clear finishes
Fiberglass Tape 600' of 3" X 10 oz silene treated tape - or equivalent amount of cut strips = 4 X 50 yard rolls Optional Fiberglass cloth for sheathing.
Fasteners:
Type Qty Length Size
A few extra fastenings have been added to each amount to allow For individual differences in fastening patterns
Keel & Chafe Strip (optional) 3/4" SS or brass strip, may be ½ oval or flat as available/preferred
Deck Hardware: items may be made or purchased ( see rigging plan sheet for sailing hardware) Forward hatch 18" X 18" rough opening (or resize deck framing to suit your chosen hatch)* Ports or Portlight material Mooring cleats Fairleads Hinges for cockpit seat locker lids or water tight hatches for lockers Cabintop Grabrails* Anchor roller Dodger and/or bimini
* these items are USCG mandatory
Interior Fittings obviously a personal choice, but a few items to think about Berth cushions: foam and fabric Curtains Portapotti Galley Stove Sink Ice chest or built-in ice box storage unit
TOOLS (italicized items are nice but optional) Saws: electric jigsaw or hand and coping saws Table saw, skill saw, chop saw, radial arm saw Drill with bits, counter sink bits Plane: hand plane #4 Stanley or equivalentassorted types such as block, etc… pliers with wire cutters; dedicated wire cutters; hammer; screwdrivers: flat and phillips assorted; chisels: assorted steel tape measure(s) clamps* assorted sizes Orbital or palm sander for finishing
SHOP ITEMS some suggestions, by no means a complete list:
Masks
Basic type for dust, and filter type for epoxy if you are sensitive Safety goggles Rubber gloves Latex or nylon medical gloves, or rubber or latex dishwashing type Tyvek work suit(s) These not only protect your clothing, but add another layer of safety against epoxy- for sensitivity exposure Assorted mixing and filleting sticks tongue depressors, popsicle sticks, paint stirrers, shaped plywood Vinegar for cleaning un-cured epoxy from tools, brushes, hands and boat cheap, safe and effective – follow with good soap and water washing to eliminate any stickiness Acetone For more difficult clean up, when epoxy has begun to cure. Use with caution. Assorted sand paper from 60-220 grit, majority of use will be 80-150 grits. You will want at least some of it to be wet and dry, or use nylon sanding pads for wet sanding. Assorted brushes Chip (throw away); foam and bristle (for finishing if required) Sizes from ½” to 3” – most will be 1 ½ “- 2”
Squeegee(s) For spreading epoxy. May be rubber or soft plastic Plastic For releasing epoxy: may be unmarked plastic bags (watch writing – it will come off) or roll plastic – such as light construction type. Also for laying down over work surface(s) to keep things clean. Saw horses set for your working comfort; workbench or table. Assorted drywall screw for temporary holding * If you don’t wish to purchase a large number of clamps: Buy several 2-4 lengths of PVC piping (or get off cuts from a plumber) in different diameters from say 2” up to 4 – 6” (depending on the size boat your are building). Run a longitudinal cut the full length of the pipe. Slice rounds from the pipe. These pieces can be forced open and hold tightly. If you don’t have the facility to cut the full length, cut rings first and slice them afterwards. You will find these amazingly versatile for all sorts of projects beyond your boat! Like having an extra hand.
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B & B Yacht Designs |
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